The Cu Chi Tunnels and the Mekong Delta

We woke up bright and early on December 23rd; the time difference made it easy. Our tour guide, Xem (pronounced "Sem") was waiting outside at 7:30 in the morning to pick us up for a day-long excursion to the Cu Chi Tunnels followed by a trip to the Mekong Delta. At least that's what the tour was called.  We were the first 3 of 11 passengers picked up; we were followed by a couple visiting from Switzerland, a man visiting from India, and a family of 5 from Britain. 

The tour was much more than we bargained for! On the way there, Xem spent the entirety of the trip kneeling on the front seat of the van, facing the group so he could provide a lengthy explanation of Vietnam's past 600 years.  We found it so fascinating I am tempted to try to write it all here, though I'd never get all the details correct.

He explained that after the use of "agent orange" (a chemical herbicide meant to thin the jungle growth) during the Vietnam war, over a million people suffered medical conditions which continued on for 2-3 generations including high cancer rates and birth defects. As a result the government of Vietnam created a program called "Handicapped Handicrafts" so people with certain disabilities could learn a skill and earn a living creating art. 

The tour bus made an unexpected (to us) stop at a factory for these crafts and we were able to see the process in action. They used duck egg shells (because they are stronger than chicken eggs), mother of pearl cut into a template shape, paint, lacquer, and rosewood to create a variety of artwork.  After an exit through the gift shop we were were back on our tour van and on to the next destination: The Cu Chi Tunnels.

Wikipedia probably does a better job of describing the tunnels than we could so feel free to get some background here: What are the Cu Chi Tunnels.  

As U.S. Americans, I think we've always had a general sense that the Vietnam War was a turning point in U.S. culture. Growing up learning about the draft, the PTSD, the overall loss of life and the anecdotal narrative that so many who returned refused to talk much about the experience really solidified the idea that it was as a bad time. The tour of the tunnels as provided from a Vietnamese perspective was super fascinating and sobering. The living condition of the Viet Cong in a series of tiny tunnels was unreal. The tunnels were carved out of a strong clay and went 3 stories deep and hundreds of meters long and included kitchens, bathrooms, well water and living rooms designed to withstand bombing. We were able to crawl through 20 meters before we were ready to get out and stretch our legs.  

Our guide acknowledged that the U.S.'s involvement was driven by the fear of communism spreading, but said the Vietnamese saw it as a resistance to occupying forces trying to prevent them from their own liberation from France. 

After seeing the tunnels, and the lengths the Viet Cong went to to survive a technologically advanced army, we could see why the U.S. lost that war. The ingenuity, the resourcefulness, and the sheer will of mind were unbelievable.  They figured out how to cook underground and transfer smoke through tiny rooms so it would come out elsewhere! They created fake termite mounds. They turned the bombs the U.S. were dropping into horrible traps and weapons.  It's hard to imagine having to face that army. Despite the weight of the content, Xem made the situation "fun" if that's the right word. He seemed proud enough to tell the tale from the victor's standpoint and his passion and pride for the sacrifice of his countrymen was apparent.  

Of course, the toll it took on the Vietnamese people was probably much worse.  Skin disease, malaria, and the aforementioned effects of chemical warfare were horrible. And we didn't even learn about the worst atrocities that went on there. 

  

We got to crawl through some of the tunnels, and try out the "secret entrance." 

After this experiential tour of the horrors of war, we had worked up an appetite for lunch which we shared with some of our tour mates. Kim cannot stop talking about how good the fried spring rolls were. 

After lunch it was another two hour ride to the Delta of the Mekong River.  This tour was AMAZING.  First we boarded a boat and headed over to Coconut Island where they make products out of... well, you know. 

Xem demonstrated the whole process, from full coconut to the candy ingredients. Don't worry, we wrote down the recipe to coconut candy:   60% Coconut Milk, 30% Tapioca, 10% Natural Flavor (if you want coconut flavor, just up the percentage of coconut milk to 70%.)  Xem was sure to clarify that you don't use the coconut water, but the milk. Coconut water is the clear liquid found inside a coconut.  Coconut milk is the juice that comes out of pressing the coconut "meat."  The rest of the coconut shell is used to make bowls, and the outer shell of the coconut can be turned into rope or other wicker products like baskets or placemats. 

After coconut island we went on to the bee keeper/honey producer to sample honey and ginger tea.  Only Kim was brave enough to handle the bees. 

Enough sweets?  Never!  Next we went to a fresh fruit tasting while being serenaded by some local singers. The best/worst part of the fruit tasting was that we were introduced to a delicious chili salt that we ate with the fruit. The problem is, Kim fell in love with it and it doesn't seem to be available in the States.  So far she has bought 3 bottles to smuggle home, but will it be enough??

Finally, we were able to board a small water craft and were rowed down a Mekong canal until we reached our river boat which took us back to the shuttle van. 

It wore us all out, but it was an amazing day.